remote oil filters

[dubasracing]

ok as most of you know my motor took a dump after an hr of run time due to lack of oil. after countless hrs. of searching for what happend i may have done a costly boo boo but i am unsure i totally for got which line went where on the remote oil filter and plus im running an oil cooler so not thinking i put the out from the motor to the out on the filter and the in from the motor to the in on the cooler then back into the in on the filter. could this have been one of the problems that caused very early engine failure?? however on a good note the motor,crank,rods,should be done sometime this week and i went to summit yesterday and purchased all gaskets,rod bolts(again),brand new hamburger pan (very very nice piece for the money) im trying to eliminate all oiling problems also any insight on if i should be running a high pressure spring in my high volume oil pump due to all the traveling through the lines?

p.s there will be a get the car back together evening comming real soon r.s.v.p. are welcome! :beer:

[i'm drivin']

well... honestly never having dealt with quite an elaborate system i would say that my opinion is a hazzardous guess. but my .02 is yes if the fittings were specifically marked for in and out that would indicate that there is something in the housing for the filter that would prevent the oil from flowing in the opposite direction, or at least decrease it signifigantly. now on the other hand if they were not marked that would signify to me that the flow direction is unimportant and that it could go either way. like i said i have never had a system like this, but in general practice the marking of direction means it has to be a certain way. sorry to hear that u had such bad luck with that engine. and the only one i know that runs something similar to what you are describing in the club is 70 mc i dont think he has the remote filter base, but i do know he has an oil cooler, or at least use to, jimmy what say u????

[i'm drivin']

hehehe!!! hey brad u want me to come over and hook thos up for ya???? or maybe i could check the bearing clearance for ya, i could give it the ol' yup looks good to me clearance test
oh and another in my opinion here, yes i would run the high pressure spring, volume is good, but i think the speed would be a good thing
anyone else???

[Lucky]

The oil cooler itself, PROBABLY doesn't care, but if it's marked IN/OUT it's for a reason. The only thing I thought of was the anti-drainback check valve in the filer itself. If the IN/OUT on the housing were backwards, it'd show good oil PRESSURE, but you wouldn't be circulating any oil.

Just my :twocents:

[10secvega]

Which remote oil filter kit do you have?Do you have to run it?I beleive the remote oil filter kit is what killed my one motor.i will never run another one.

[70MC]

after countless hrs. of searching for what happend i may have done a costly boo boo but i am unsure i totally for got which line went where on the remote oil filter and plus im running an oil cooler so not thinking i put the out from the motor to the out on the filter and the in from the motor to the in on the cooler then back into the in on the filter. could this have been one of the problems that caused very early engine failure?? :
It is a remote possibility Brad.
I don't have a remote filter, but do have an oil cooler with an oil thermostat, and an oil filter adapter in the stock location to run lines from. The thermostat and oil filter adapter came with instruction to tell you the in and out locations, but neither had any markings on them to tell you in and out so i engraved them. IMO i would think even if you hooked somthing up backwards you would still have flow, but my be a bit restrictive as some items may flow better in one direction. Oil pressure may be fine or a little low at idle and not rise with rpms as it should. I would think that the only way not to have pressure would be if the oil could not make a complete circle, or get back to the motor, which i don't think is the case.
There is much debate over running high volume and high pressure pumps in different applacations. It pretty much boils down to you need as much oil (pressure/volume) to keep things happy, any more is a waste of a little horsepower, and it adds a little more heat to the oil from being recirculated in the pump. Since i don't have the R&D to find out exactly how much i need i always run a high volume/pressure pump, since the pros outweight the cons.
Sorry about your bad luck Brad, ask alot of people alot af questions so you get it figured out.
I agree with Lucky, if the filter has an antidrainback valve, exactly what he said.

[10secvega]

Most relocation kits take a Fram ph8a filter wich is the same as a Ford filter.

[70MC]

I was doing some more thinking and i think Lucky may have hit the nail on the head.
I recieved some tech articles from Melling a long time ago that explained that oil pumps (i would say most pumps) do not make pressure they make flow, it is the resistance to that flow that makes pressure. So if we were able to spin the oil pump at say 3000 rpms while the pickup (inlet) is emersed in oil but the outlet was open, not connected to anything, we would have zero oil pressure. There would be nothing wrong with the pump just no resistance to the flow. I can see where you may have the exact opposite, if, like Lucky said you have an oil filter with an antidrainback valve. You would have very high pressure but no flow. Since the filter is the first place the oil goes your pressure would stay very high even after the oil was warming up. Thin oil leaks past our bearings faster, but it can't leak anywhere if its not flowing. Brad, did you have a filter with an antidrainback valve? Did you notice that your oil pressure stayed high even after your engine warmed up? Tell us a little more. That could have been your problem.

[Lucky]

I would think that the only way not to have pressure would be if the oil could not make a complete circle, or get back to the motor, which i don't think is the case.

I agree with Lucky, if the filter has an antidrainback valve, exactly what he said.

Hydraulic systems, be it oil, fluid, water, whatever, need not make a complete circuit to build "pressure". It's the FLOW that needs a complete circuit. After going to hydraulics school for the FD, I learned that oil pressure gauges are actually quite misleading. That's exactly why Birdman runs 4 oil pressure gauges from different parts of the engine, to help get a better understanding of what exactly is going on.

[desperado]

i think by putting them backwords you created an air vortex around your flux capasitor,which would broblably take out the main prod sponder,if the one way dual bypass crossed drilled single check valve is comprimised.that could effect your fuel injected brake lines.hahahahahahahahahaha

[dubasracing]

ok its a trans dapt oil filter relocation kit the in on the block adapter i think should go to the out of the filter and the out of the block should go into the cooler then the filter then back to the motor?? i had the in from the motor going to the in of the filter i also have a inline thermostat on the oil cooler to switch the fan on at 180 degrees but noticed the fan never kicked on ?? i have a derale oil cooler and fan no instructions on in and out of the cooler i just plumbed the topside of the cooler as in and the bottom as out but whos to say which end is up on the cooler?? very confusing .i had 40psi of pressure at initall start up then it dropped after a few minutes to 20 and ocassionaly went a bit under 20 psi after it was warmed up i was using 10w30 oil and a vo1 (vavoline) or big ford oil filter. the sandwich adapter and oil filter housing are marked in and out but i will call trans dapt tomorrow for some more insight on this situation. i did buy a high pressure spring for the new oil pump canton oil pan company says to run a high pressure high voulme pump due to the fact that the oil has to travel through 6 -7 feet of lines and possibly may need an extra 1/2 to 1 qt more oil which i doubt, its a 7 qt pan including filter even if i were using 1 qt in the lines and filter id still have 6 qts in the engine. well i downloaded instruction sheets for the cooler and remote filter i had the lines wrong and i have to check the cooler supposidly there is an in and out on it too instructions state if little or no oil pressure is seen shut off engine and switch hoses! boy talk about a stupid thing to overlook and costly too........ well lesson learned... take nothing for granted and triple check everything.

[10secvega]

I personally don't like the trans dapt oil filter adapter,it's cast aluminum and very flimsy.try to get a good billet one like Moroso makes!

[Lucky]

blah blah blah i had the in from the motor going to the in of the filter.... blah blah blah

Right there's your problem. When hooking 2 or more components together, IN NEVER goes to another IN. Think about hooking up a VCR to your TV. Cable IN, TV OUT. Whith me?

[Z28]

Might not have helped in your case but I recomend everyone use an oil safty shutoff switch (12.99). Cheap insurance. Run your coil wire through it with a bypass button for startups. Shuts engine off if pressure drops below 7psi.

[Lucky]

Might not have helped in your case but I recomend everyone use an oil safty shutoff switch (12.99). Cheap insurance. Run your coil wire through it with a bypass button for startups. Shuts engine off if pressure drops below 7psi.

Yeah, cuz that worked out SO WELL for you at Quaker! LMAO

SOOOOORRRRY Dude! Just had to do it. I understand the circumstances, and that there was no inidcation about a problem....

But I'm al ball buster, and you were SCREEEEEMIN "Hit Me!" LOL

[Z28]

I'll never live that down.

[dubasracing]

well like i said in the other thread i was not paying attention to details.. i was so excited to have everything done and wanted to start her up that i forgot to hook up the doll!! lmao (wierd science for you non movie people) however nows a better time than ever for upgrades and extras now i got a big ol autometer bright red warning light if it drops below 18 psi and a much better designed oil pan with all the bells and whistles. i will find out tomorrow wwhen all the parts and block will be done hopefully they are done already or by tuesday so i can get ready for norwalk in oct. and possibly a night or 2 at dragway 42 or thompson.

[Nitro]

sounds like a good argument for hookin up the sending unit to the top of the mill. I never could get why guys monitor pressure right out of the pump. I only do that if i'm lookin for a bad pump.

I did hear something one time bout Chevy distributors chanelling oil...i.e. you have to have a distributor body in it when you prime or you're only priming one side the motor?

Oh, and if your lines and filter CAN hold a quart, they will ALWAYS hold a quart...anybody ever changed a filter and NOT burnt your arm? That means that your seven quart pan will be a quart low after you run it for five seconds, and thereafter. Might as well add the other quart.

I'm gonna plum a 1" oil line in the malibu from the filter thru the rear bumper, a tank in the trunk, seven different coolers and back to the engine. That way I can get where I'm going (at least 1/4 mile) before it runs out of oil if, say, my filter springs a leak.

[10secvega]

I'm gonna plum a 1" oil line in the malibu from the filter thru the rear bumper, a tank in the trunk, seven different coolers and back to the engine. That way I can get where I'm going (at least 1/4 mile) before it runs out of oil if, say, my filter springs a leak.

Have you been talking to Mr Z?

[Z28]

Thats how I'm plumbed all right, finally someone with some sense besides me. If ya look at the old video of the Oil Tanker Nitro ya can make the full Quarter on it!!!